Despite the fact that wine is now produced in at least two wineries in all 50 states -- including eight in Alaska and 53 in New Jersey -- think American wine and the first place that comes to mind is almost certainly California.

The California gold rush of the mid-1800s resulted in rapid population growth, and with it, a corresponding increase in the demand for wine. The nascent wine industry found a foothold in Napa and Sonoma counties and some producers founded back then, like Inglenook, are still around. Today, California produces nearly 90 percent of all wine made in the U.S. and, according to Sotheby's Wine Encyclopedia, it's the world's fourth-largest producer behind France, Italy and Spain. California's Wine Institute says that 2,843 of the 6,368 bonded wineries in the United States in 2008 were located in The Golden State, accounting for two-thirds of all wine sales in the U.S. -- 196 million cases.

Think of California wine and you'll almost certainly think of Napa and Sonoma. With more than 600 wineries between them, these two counties are home to such well-known names as Robert Mondavi, Caymus, Jordan, Duckhorn and Kendall-Jackson -- and they're the center of the state's wine-tourism industry. They're also the home of many lesser-known quality producers like Forth Vineyards, tucked well off the beaten path in the Dry Creek Valley area of Sonoma County. This family-owned operation is noted for their "All Boys" and "Rebecca's Vineyard" cabernets, and their crisp and delightful sauvignon blanc.

But Napa and Sonoma make up just a part, in fact a small part, of the total California wine story. It may be surprising to learn that Sonoma County accounts for only about six percent of California's total grape crush, and Napa only about four percent. The sheer size of the state, with its variety of climates and micro-climates, provides a multitude of widely-varied terroirs (soil, climate, altitude, etc.) suitable for growing many different wine grapes and producing many different styles of wine.

Wine grapes are, in fact, grown in 46 of California's 58 counties. The Wine Institute divides the state into four primary regions which are comprised of over 90 separate "appellations of origin," known in the U.S. as American Viticultural Areas or AVAs.  These regions are: the North Coast Region -- including Napa County, Sonoma County, Mendocino County and Lake County; the Central Coast Region -- San Francisco Bay, Monterey, Paso Robles, Santa Barbara and others; the Southern California Region -- San Diego County, Temecula Valley, Cucamonga Valley; and Sacramento/San Joaquin Valleys and Sierra Foothills.

George Leontaris, assistant manager and chief wine buyer at Napa Valley Grille at Garden State Plaza in Paramus, says that, while the restaurant serves only California wine, not all of it is from Napa. "People come looking for the big, bold, sexy flavors of California wine but that doesn't necessarily mean Napa or Sonoma. Pinot Noir, for example, thrives in the cool nights found in Half Moon Bay just south of San Francisco." Farther south, he cites Mer Soleil Vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands of Monterey County. "More and more people are asking for un-oaked chardonnays," he says, "And the Mer Soleil Silver doesn't touch oak or undergo any of the malolactic fermentation that gives some chardonnays their 'buttery' flavor."

Even farther south in Santa Barbara County, in the Central Coast area north of Los Angeles, is the Kinton Winery. Here they make only syrah, taking advantage of the unique geological conditions found there. Kinton's vineyards are located in a valley between east-west mountain ranges which effectively "funnel" moisture from Pacific Ocean to the grapes and provide the warm days and cool nights ideal for the grape.

Paso Robles, south of Monterey, is another lesser-known area producing some great wine. Don Carter, owner of Wine Seller in Ridgewood says, "Paso Robles is hot right now and we're seeing many up-and-coming producers. They're making lots of ripe, plumy reds which are soft and ready to drink. J Lohr may be better-known, but High Note, a Paso Robles cabernet that sells for $14, is a great value."

George and Don both understand that these days, wine buyers -- like everyone else -- are looking for value. They agree that some of the less-well-known wine producing areas of California are providing just that. These wineries, often struggling to make a name for themselves, need to provide high-quality wine, often at very reasonable price points. They simply don't (yet) have the name recognition that sells the wine by itself. Be sure to ask your sommelier or local wine merchant for suggestions.